Protect your Jeep Wrangler JL's cranking battery from being drained down by your aftermarket accessories. The top cover plate has several innovative features in a simple package. All of the wiring has already been done for you, and the smart isolator comes pre-installed.
The welded gussets on top have holes with grommets to route the wires directly to the correct battery post, so there's no guess work involved to make the connections.
High quality battery terminal connectors are crimped to the flexible 2 gauge wire connecting the batteries together. With all the wiring integrated into the top plate, servicing your batteries has never been easier. Simply pull the terminals off the battery posts, remove the 4 bolts securing the lid, and all the wiring can be lifted up and out of the way to service your batteries when necessary.
Here's how it works:
- When both your batteries are fully charged at 13.2 volts, they are automatically connected and are charged at the same time.
- When you park and turn off the engine, but continue to use accessories such as lights or the stereo or a CB, both batteries begin to drain down.
- When your main cranking battery reaches 12.7 volts, the smart isolator separates the batteries, so that your cranking battery will have enough power to start the engine. The second battery continues to power your accessories for as long as it will last.
- After you crank the vehicle, your main cranking battery will be charged up to 13.2 volts first, and then the isolator will allow the charging of your accessory battery. By only charging one battery at a time, your alternator is protected from excessive strain.
What if your cranking battery is somehow drained down too low to be able to start the vehicle? We have a solution for that.
- Press the Start Boost button and the isolator will connect both batteries together for 1 minute, acting like built-in jumper cables to jump start your engine off your accessory battery.
- As long as the accessory battery has enough power, you'll be able to start your vehicle instead of being stranded with a dead battery!
- The alternator will charge both batteries for 1 minute, then switches back over to automatic mode to reduce the strain on your alternator.
Also includes high amp power and ground bus bars. The bus bars are already prewired to the accessory battery. Now you can quickly and easily connect your winch, lights, amplifiers, and lots more while keeping the wiring neat and orderly. Your winch or other high-amp accessories go onto the large center post on the bus bars, and all your other accessories go directly to the smaller screw terminals on the bus bars.
The included smart isolator gives you automatic control of all the charging functions with no interaction required.
- Fits 2018-2020 Jeep Wrangler JL.
- Batteries: Sold separately. Matching Group 25 batteries are required.
- Completely prewired out of the box
- Boost switch included - jump start your vehicle off your second battery
- Power & ground bus bars make it easy to connect accessories
- Smart Isolator automatically handles all charging functions
- Interface port for the G Screen monitoring system
- Best quality wires, tin-plated copper connectors, and sealed heat shrink tubing
- Powder coated for durability
- Proudly Made in the USA
The Jeep dual battery kit comes with a smart isolator and solenoid rated to handle a continuous 200 amps of current. It will handle current spikes of up to 750 amps for up to 30 seconds.
Optional G Screen Monitoring System
Need to keep a closer eye on your batteries? Check out our dual battery monitoring system - the G Screen.
- Voltage levels for each battery
- Remote status indicator
- Background color changes based on battery status
- Remote boost button
- Completely pre-wired for you!
- Multiple mounting options (A pillar, dash, or in an sPod over the rear view mirror)
- Order with your battery kit to combine shipping
Already know you want one? Simply add it from the options above, or see more details on the G Screen product page first.
Optional ring terminals
Are you planning on connecting some accessories to the power & ground bus bars? We offer this convenient 10-pack of high quality, adhesive-lined heat shrink ring terminals. These are much better quality than the cheap ring terminals at the auto parts stores. Used with 16-14ga wire - the most common size for low amperage accessories like LED lights, CB, etc. Add a pack to your order from the options above.
- Fits Jeep Wrangler JL and the JT Gladiator, 2018 and up
Fits the 3.6L engine and the 2.0L Turbo engine.
How can I hook up solar panels?
Most people want to use solar panels to be able to run their accessories for as long as possible with the engine off. You can connect the solar charge controller directly to our power and ground bus bars. The solar charge will go into your aux battery first to replace the power used by your accessories. As long as the panel is big enough to keep up with the demand and charge up the battery, then our smart isolator will link them together, and the solar will flow over to the cranking battery as well.
How do I connect a trickle charger to keep both batteries charged?
You can connect a charger to your factory positive wire on the cranking battery and the factory negative wire on the aux battery. This way the trickle charger works just like your alternator - it will charge the cranking battery first for a couple minutes, then the smart isolator links the batteries together to charge the aux battery as well.
The red light on top of my isolator stays on all the time. Is something wrong?
The red LED light is a status indicator. On means the batteries are fully charged and they are connected together. Off means they are below 12.7v and the isolator has separated the batteries to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories.
My isolator gets warm / hot / very hot. Is something wrong?
It is perfectly normal for your isolator to get hot. It can get up to 140 degrees, even with the engine turned off, which is way too hot to touch with your hand, but not nearly hot enough to hurt anything around it. This is a normal characteristic of any electromechanical solenoid device.
I left my headlights/radio/dome lights turned on, and now the engine won't crank. I thought the system would turn off the cranking battery to protect it from getting too low.
The factory positive wire harness feeds power directly to your fuse box, which means all of the factory circuits are powered from your cranking battery. The isolator does not turn off power to the fuse box. It 'isolates' the 2 batteries from each other, to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories that you have wired up to the bus bars. If you accidentally drain your cranking battery, that's when you'd use the boost button to jump start yourself from the second battery.
My factory post clamps won't get tight enough on the battery post. It is loose and causing weird electrical issues.
The factory battery post clamps are made of light duty stamped sheetmetal, and are easy to damage. First, make sure the post clamp is fully seated all the way to the bottom of the battery post. Try loosing up the post clamp nut so it is very loose, then use a large socket and gently tap the clamp down onto the post. Now tighten the clamp nut and see if it is secure. You can also try using a battery post shim, available from your local auto parts store, to fill the gap between the clamp and the post, allowing the clamp to tighten down more securely.
Do I need an sPOD, or is it unnecessary since the kit has the power and ground bus bars for hooking up my accessories?
The sPOD system from www.4x4spod.com is a great compliment to our dual battery system. It allows you to easy add electrical accessories that need a fuse, relay, and a switch. It does have limitations, however, with the amount of current that can be used through any one switch. For example, you can't control a winch with it due to the very high amp draw for the winch. Our bus bars are perfect for connecting accessories that need direct battery power, or for those that come with a wire harness that includes a fuse, relay, and switch.
How do I connect an sPOD system to the dual battery kit?
The sPOD source unit should be connected directly to our power and ground bus bars. For the best connection, we recommend using a larger ring terminal on the positive lead so that it can be connected to the large center stud on the power bus bar. The sPOD's negative lead should fit the center stud on the negative bus bar.
The sPOD is turning off my accessories. Did I hook it up incorrectly?
The sPOD has a low voltage monitor that will automatically shut circuits down to avoid draining your battery too much. When adding an sPOD to our dual battery kit, we recommend you pull out the 2 amp fuse inside the Source box. It is the only 2 amp fuse you'll see when you remove the cover. This will disable its low voltage cutoff system. Since you have 2 batteries, and since our smart isolator will already protect your cranking battery from getting drained, you probably don't care if your accessory battery gets drained down all the way. That's why you have 2 batteries in the first place!
Is it ok to use my favorite brand of batteries, or are the Optima and Odyssey batteries the only choice?
Any Group 34 battery will work in our tray. That refers to the physical size of the battery. We offer Optima and Odyssey batteries through our website as a convenience for people who want to have everything delivered to their doorstep, rather than having to go to the store to buy them and pay sales tax, and have to carry 2 heavy batteries home to be installed.